How To Build a Closet Drawer Storage System

Why We Used Plywood

If you’re wondering whether plywood is good enough for this closet storage project, furniture specialist Spencer Lee would like a few words:

“Plywood is not just “good enough” — it’s strategic. In closet storage projects where strength, stability, and precision are critical, cabinet-grade plywood outperforms MDF and particle board (and even wood) on every front that matters.

Plywood’s cross-laminated construction resists warping and sagging over time, especially under the weight of loaded shelves. That is not just a durability win — it is a safety and performance issue. Unlike solid wood, it handles humidity shifts without cracking or cupping, which is crucial in closets that often lack climate control. The strength-to-weight ratio also makes it ideal for vertical supports, especially when you want slim profiles without sacrificing integrity.”

Closet storage cutting diagrams

This shows only the 3/4-in. plywood. The 1/2-in. and 1/4-in. plywood sheets are for the drawers and back.

Cut the plywood down to size

Start by cutting all the parts to size. The corner box sides are slightly narrower than 12 inches, so you can cut off dings and dents and still cut four sides from a sheet of plywood.

You won’t be able to cut the shelves that fit between the boxes to length until the boxes are installed (the shelves need to be cut to fit), but you can rip plywood to 11-7/8-in. and cut the shelves to length later.

• Once the parts are cut, apply edge banding (iron-on veneer) to all the edges that will be exposed after the boxes are assembled.
• Build a jig to hold the parts upright. Place a part in the jig, then cut the edge banding so it overhangs each end of the plywood by 1/2 in.
• Run an iron (on the cotton setting) slowly over the edge banding. Then press a scrap piece of wood over the edge banding to make sure it’s fully adhered.
• Trim the edges with a veneer edge trimmer.

Finish now, save time later

Pre-finishing gives you a faster, neater finish because you’ll have fewer corners to mess with. As Lee puts it: “Here is the industry rule of thumb that rarely makes it into casual DIY tips: if it’s harder to reach with a brush once it’s installed, it’s too late to do it right. Once shelves and vertical supports are in place, your angles for brushing or spraying become cramped. You end up rushing, overloading the brush, or skipping spots entirely.”

He continues: “Raw plywood is like a sponge; if left unfinished after assembly, it absorbs ambient moisture unevenly, which can lead to subtle swelling or surface fuzz that throws off the fit or feel of the storage system. Early sealing locks in dimensional stability.”

Lightly sand the wood and your closet rod with 120-grit sandpaper. Wipe away the dust with a tack cloth, then use a paint pad to apply a coat of polyurethane on everything except the drawer parts. Lee recommends a coat of sanding sealer before you apply polyurethane to even out absorption and keep the finish coat sitting proud, not blotchy. “That’s a small step that makes a big difference in the pro look of the final piece,” he says.

An inexpensive pad will let you finish each part in about 20 seconds. Let the finish dry, then scuff between coats.

Preinstall drawer slides

Attaching drawer slides is a lot easier if you do it before the boxes are assembled.

• Position the slides using reference lines and a spacer. Remember that there are left- and right-hand slides, usually marked “CL” and “CR.”

Gang-cut the standards

• Cutting 16 standards one by one with a hacksaw would take hours. Instead, bundle two or more together with tape and cut them in bunches.
• You can cut them with a hacksaw, but an easier way is to use a metal blade in a jigsaw. Place two or more standards together so the numbers are oriented the same way and the standards are aligned at the ends. Tape the standards together where you’re going to make the cut, then gang-cut them with your jigsaw.

Install the drawer slides

It’s easier to install the drawer slides and the shelf standards that go inside the boxes before you assemble the boxes.

• Use a framing square to draw reference lines on the drawer unit sides for your drawer slides.
• The slides are spaced eight inches apart, centered 8-3/4-in. down from the top of the box. Keep the slides 3/4-in. from the front edge (this is where the drawer faces will go).
• Use a 7/64-in. self-centering drill bit to drill pilot holes and screw the slides into place.
• Attach the glides for the basket three inches below the drawer slides. If your basket is narrower than 22-1/2-in., screw a cleat to the box side so the basket will fit.

Attach the shelf standards

Now attach the shelf standards.

• Screw the standards to the inside of the box sides, one inch from the edges.
• Keep the standards 3/4-in. from the top (that’s where the box tops go).
• Be sure the numbers on the standards are facing the same way when you install them—this helps ensure the shelves will be level.

Tack the boxes together

If you have a brad nailer, first tack the boxes together to hold the parts in position then add one-inch screws for strength.

Use 1-5/8-in. trim screws because the screw heads are small and unobtrusive (we left the screw heads exposed). Here are some tips for assembling the boxes:

• Attach the screw strips to the box tops first, then add one side, then the bottom shelf, and then the second side.
• Drill 1/8-in. pilot holes to prevent splitting. Stay an inch from the edges.
• If your cuts are slightly off and the top, bottom, and sides aren’t exactly the same width, align the front edges.
• The boxes will be slightly wobbly until they’re installed in the closet, so handle them with care.
• The middle bottom box has a back. Square the box with the back, then glue and tack the back in place.
• After the corner boxes are assembled, screw shelf standards to the side that doesn’t abut the wall (it’s easier to install the standards before the boxes are installed).

Square the drawer boxes

To square the drawers, set adjacent sides against a framing square that’s clamped to your work surface.

• Glue and tack the drawer bottom into place.
• Then set the drawer slides on the drawers, drill pilot holes, and screw the slides into place.
• If the boxes aren’t square, the drawers won’t fit right or glide smoothly.

Center the drawer faces

Getting the drawer faces in their perfect position is tricky business. If the faces are even slightly off-center, the drawer won’t close properly.

• To align them, install the drawers in the box and place double-sided tape over the drawer front.
• Starting with the top drawer, center the drawer face in the opening.
• You should have about an eighth-inch gap on both sides and the top.
• Press the face into the tape, then take the drawer back out and clamp the face to the drawer to keep it stationary.
• Drive two one-inch screws through the inside of the drawer into the face.

Hang the corner boxes

Now install the boxes.

• Start by drawing a level line in the closet, 11 inches down from the ceiling. This will give you just over 10-in. of storage space above the closet system after the top shelf is installed.
• Then mark the stud locations on the wall with tape.

Don’t assume your closet walls are plumb—they’re probably not. So you can’t just place a box in a corner without checking for alignment.

• Align the top of the box with your level line on the wall.
• Have your helper plumb the box with a level while you drive 2-1/2-in. screws through the screw strip into the wall at the stud locations.
• Attach the other corner box the same way.

Install the shelves and drawers

• Find the center of the wall, then make a mark 12-in. on one side of the center mark. That’s where your shelf unit will go.
• Again, have your helper plumb the box while you align it with your marks and screw it to the wall.
• Prop up the drawer unit on spacers so it’s tight against the shelf unit.
• Align the edges, then clamp the boxes and screw them together. Drive screws through the screw strip into the wall.
• Next, place the top shelf over the boxes.
  • Pro tip: We could just barely fit our shelf into the closet to lift it into place. If yours won’t fit, you’ll have to cut it and install it as two pieces. Make the cut near one end, over a corner box, so it’s not noticeable.
• Once it’s in place, screw the shelf to the box tops with 1-1/4-in. screws.
• Attach shelf standards along the sides of the shelf and drawer units.
• Cut the adjustable shelves to length to fit between the corner boxes and the middle boxes.
• Finally, screw the closet rod flanges into place, cut the closet rod to size and install the rods.

FAQ

How can I make a small closet more efficient?

Besides building a closet storage system, you can employ one or more of these strategies:

• Maximize the use of vertical space by adding shelves and hangers;
• Use shelf dividers;
• Install double closet rods;
• Store items in baskets;
• Keep your shoes in stackable shoe bins.

You can find more great ideas in this article.

How do I maintain an organized closet?

Start by decluttering and giving away items you don’t need. Consider turning this into an ongoing routine. Then establish a system for organizing the items you keep into categories, and stick to it. If you don’t want to build a closet storage system, consider buying one. Finally check out these closet storage hacks to help keep your closet organized.

About the Expert

• Spencer Lee is an interior designer and furniture specialist. I am the Founder of Lakeland Furniture, based in the UK.